Most of the Bedouin tribes in the area still depend on the Nabataean paths. Umm Khaled, who belongs to the Ammarin tribe, told me how difficult it was to make ends meet when the roads were emptied of visitors during the pandemic, and how her family is still struggling. Insisting I come back for tea, Umm Khaled showed me how, even through hardship, she and many others are able to make the desert a hospitable place.
