My heart was in my throat just thinking about making the death-defying ascent, since just a thin steel scaffolding encircles the ladder for safety. But "focussing on reaching the top helps," Father Ilarion told me. "The first time I climbed, I didn't dare to look down," he added. "But I have now got used to it and can complete this deadly pilgrimage in about 15-20 minutes without a rope or harness."
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